72 W. 69th St.
Upper West Side
This venue is closed.
Bill Telepan of the once-popular and now-defunct Judson Grill in midtown
turns out to be an avowed Greenmarketeer. To convey a sense of bucolic
earthiness, his restaurant's menu is patterned with oak leaves, and the
walls of the rooms are colored in a soothing, mossy green. There are
over two dozen dishes available, not including dessert. Luckily, this
menu bloat (wedged between the appetizers and entrées are nine
"mid-courses") doesn’t matter too much, because Telepan's food is
generally very good. Of the mid-course offerings, the lobster Bolognese is too big for
appetizer but too small to share and doesn’t quite pack the punch.
Earthy, robust flavors are one of the staples of high Greenmarket
cooking, but Telepan seems more at home with lightness and subtlety. The
seafood dishes are close to excellent. The bar offers a variety of
decent cocktails, but the restaurant's eclectic wine list is better.