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Bill Telepan of the once-popular and now-defunct JUdson Grill in midtown turns out to be an avowed Greenmarketeer. To convey a sense of bucolic earthiness, his restaurant's menu is patterned with oak leaves, and the walls of the rooms are colored in a soothing, mossy green. There are over two dozen dishes available, not including dessert. Luckily, this menu bloat (wedged between the appetizers and entrées are nine "mid-courses") doesn’t matter too much, because Telepan's food is generally very good. Of the mid-course offerings, the short ribs are nicely braised, but so nourishing they might be better as an entrée. Ditto the lobster Bolognese, which is too big for an appetizer but too small to share and doesn’t quite pack the punch. Earthy, robust flavors are one of the staples of high Greenmarket cooking, but Telepan seems more at home with lightness and subtlety. The seafood dishes are close to excellent. The bar offers a variety of decent cocktails, but the restaurant's eclectic wine list is better. — Adam Platt

Extra

If you're looking for interesting wines, turn to the "new world" sections of the list.

Brunch
Sat.-Sun., 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.

Tasting Menu
4 courses, $64; with wine pairing, $100; 5 courses, $74; with wine pairing, $120;

Recommended Dishes

House-smoked brook trout, $15.50

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (2/6/06)

Featured In

• Where to Eat 2008 (1/7/08)