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Not every parent considers Italian ices an absolute requirement for a teething tot with a dairy allergy, but that's how NYC ICYgot started. Dissatisfied with the goods available to their son, Noah, Jonathan and Suzie Leeds decided to get into the business themselves. Like most passionate single-product purveyors, Jonathan is tight-lipped about his methodology: All we could get out of him is that he learned his craft from "some very experienced gelato people, and some old Italian guy," and that he does "certain things differently than other people, but can't really say what." He will admit that he uses mostly natural ingredients in both his water and his cream ices ($2 for two scoops to $5 for a pint): freshly squeezed orange juice and Madagascar vanilla in his creamsicle, Callebaut cocoa in his chocolate-peanut butter, fresh-peach purée in his peach, and crystallized ginger and real apricots in his excellent apricot-ginger.

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