- READER REVIEWS
Nearby Subway Stops
N, Q, R at 49th St.; C, E at 50th St.
American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
- Great Desserts
- Open Kitchens / Watch the Chef
- Theater District
- Full Bar
This venue is closed.
Butter-yellow leather banquettes, sunset-hued walls, blue track lighting, and giant framed photos of champagne bubbles: Décor this dramatic is more frequently seen on the sets of neighboring Broadway shows, but Océo is not your typical nosh-and-dash, curtain's-at-eight establishment. Helmed by former Lespinasse sous-chef Shane McBride, this daring, upscale eatery offers New American creations with a global twist. The menu's only uniting theme is whimsy—there's an interesting selection of fish with clever pairings; ahi tuna is served with wasabi-flavored basmati rice—plus geographically provocative standards like Long Island duck three-ways and Iranian caviar. Some of the culinary chimera are more successful than others: Shredded lamb crepe with tart tomato marinade and fresh cucumber raita is a winner, but if the menu occasionally overpromises, the desserts more than make up for it. A light chicory coffee semifreddo topped with frothed milk and served with warm, gooey cinnamon donut holes is sure to induce rapturous sighs; the rich density of a chocolate terrine is intelligently tempered by a dollop of mint julep ice cream. Aside from the occasional French flourish (yes, there's foie gras—but it's of Hudson Valley pedigree), Lespinasse fans looking for hints of their beloved St. Regis Hotel-ensconced, formal dining room at Océo will come up short. McBride's thoroughly modern venture is, however, located in the avant-garde Time Hotel—perhaps a worthy comment on the trajectory of the classically trained chef in New York.Recommended Dishes
Braised Colorado lamb shank, $24
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