Okozushi

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78 Solid

A sushi izakaya from the chef behind Okonomi and Yuji Ramen.

376 Graham Ave., Brooklyn, NY, 11211

https://www.okozushi.com/

Known For

The lowdown

Yuji Haraguchi’s plan, it seems, is to create his own Little Japan in his corner of South Williamsburg, where he’s opened his third spot, Okozushi. Like his other businesses, it’s seafood-centric. So while Yuji Haraguchi’s plan, it seems, is to create his own Little Japan in this corner of South Williamsburg, where he’s opened his third spot, Okozushi. Like his other businesses, it’s seafood-centric. So while Okozushi isn’t a change of pace for Haraguchi, it is for New York’s sushi scene: He serves Kyoto-style sushi, which emphasizes cured and pickled fish, whereas most restaurants in this city do edomae-style. But an even bigger break is the relatively affordable prices for his sets of hakozushi, temari, and omakase temari when it seems everyone opening a notable sushi restaurant in New York right now is at war to have the highest prices. He wants to offer high-end quality at affordable prices by using local fish that he’ll cure and pickle, like kombu-cured bluefish hakozushi with, say, salted orange. (There are a handful of izakaya dishes like nitsuke or soy-braised fish, too, as well as a brunch-time fish curry.) It’s creative, unusual stuff. But not unexpected for a guy who earned attention for salmon and cheese mazemen ramen. As for drinks, the restaurant serves Konacha green tea but is BYOB, which Haraguchi says is to keep prices down. With just nine seats, it’s very small.

Chris Crowley

What you need to know

DrinksB.Y.O.B

Noise LevelCivilized