Olmsted

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92 Excellent

An impressive level of skill, detail, and imagination set Olmsted apart from the typical neighborhood joint.

659 Vanderbilt Ave., Brooklyn, NY, 11238

718-552-2610

http://www.olmstednyc.com/

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The lowdown

Vegetables in various inventive boutique forms figure prominently on the menu of the thrifty, hypersophisticated Prospect Heights establishment Olmsted, which the talented young chef Greg Baxtrom and his co–“farmer-owner,” Ian Rothman, built from scratch in an old storefront space among the cafés and old laundromats along Vanderbilt Avenue. What separates this highly stylized, reasonably priced post-gourmet establishment from other homegrown, seasonally attuned joints crowding the dining landscape these days is the level of skill, detail, and imagination the proprietors bring to their carefully stage-­managed production. Baxtrom’s intricate recipes include thin, melting crêpes flavored with carrots, fried packets of crab Rangoon stuffed with shreds of garden kale, and a famous summertime schnitzel, which is a kind of ingenious frittata hybrid made with tomatoes instead of pork and sautéed in a pool of shallot butter. The entrées are all priced in a neighbor-friendly fashion, and if you’re wise, you’ll save a few extra bucks for one of the house desserts, like crumbly, fresh-fried doughnuts infused with apples; gently dissolving cups of frozen yogurt poured with lavender honey; and the opulent, cocoa-forward chocolate mousse, which tastes like it’s been beamed down into this modest section of Brooklyn from a gleaming kitchen in one of the great plutocrat dining establishments across the river.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

Insider Tips Reservations aren’t accepted on Mondays, a night when the restaurant has also been known to host special dinners with visiting chefs.

Recommended DishesCarrot crêpe; grilled scallops; kale crab Rangoon; frozen yogurt.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelBring earplugs!