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Homemade focaccia, which arrives at the table shortly after you do, is the first sign that One83 has soul. The bread is a useful reference point too because, at first glance, it's hard to discern from the surrounding scene just what kind of food One83 serves—the spacious, contemporary design, with smart pendant lighting over the bar, offers few clues. Then a peek at the menu points you to Liguria. Gnocchi is light and actually tastes like potato with an aromatic, balanced pesto; ravioli alla Masala is served with a mushroom-intense sauce; and carpaccio di Manza comes with piquant baby arugula and Parmesan that's deepened with the slightest, earthy suggestion of truffle. A variety of seating options—sidewalk tables, barstools, tables, and banquettes plus a large, covered patio in the back with both ceiling fans and gas heaters—accommodates all sorts in all weathers. — Carey Meyers

BYOB is permitted, though a $15 corkage fee applies. Half portions of pasta are also available.

Carpaccio di manzo, $10.95; gnocchi con pesto, $15.75; agnello alla romana, $27.95