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One Little West 12 Street's scene is pretty much de rigeur for the Meatpacking District: A cool and beautiful space filled with people who think they're cool and beautiful, too. There's a decided sexiness to the house style: candles glow from niches in brick walls, soothing sands and browns dominate the color scheme, high ceilings offset low seating, and wrought-iron details run throughout. Cozy nooks invite the diners to lounge, cruise their neighbors, and try to maintain conversations over the changing soundtrack. Much more of a destination than a restaurant en route, those who venture through One's red velvet ropes will likely want to ensconce themselves for the evening: This is a place that invites lingering while sipping drinks served by waitresses in impossibly short dresses. Part tapas, part urbane comfort food, and part Asian-influenced fare, it all looks great on the plate. The rum-glazed hanger steak is as good as any in town. — Carey Meyers

Bottle service starts at 11:30 p.m.

Hanger steak, $22; market cheese plate, $18