L at Bedford Ave.; G, L at Metropolitan Ave.-Lorimer St.
Dinner entrees, $11-15
Discover, MasterCard, Visa
There’s no forgetting that you’re in a Hawaiian restaurant when you step into Onomea, a narrow dining room just off Metropolitan Avenue. The ocean-colored walls are lined with backlit photos of the 50th state, with its main eight islands carved out of the wood paneling in the back. Shipping-crate slats line the ceiling over resin tables and rustic metal chairs. A common Hawaiian snack, the spam musubi, is essentially sushi but with canned meat in place of raw fish — it's an interesting, but acquired taste. The poke appetizer tops high-quality cubes of ahi tuna with seaweed and onions. The loco moco is a teriyaki-glazed burger patty on a bed of rice (white, egg-fried, or spam-fried) under a runny egg, an odd choice for dinner, but satisfying nonetheless. Not to be missed, the traditional juices are slightly sweet and refreshing, like the lilikoi-passion-fruit or the strawberry-guava.Recommended Dishes
Poke, $13; kalua pig, $15