Profile

While there’s no shortage of sushi joints in the East 80s and 90s, most come in the traditional or quick-in-and-out varieties. Ooki—whose ambitions match its name’s meaning, “big”—has caused a stir among locals for its clubby, contemporary take on Japanese. Dim orange lighting just barely reveals water trickling down a pebbled back wall and pop-art-like prints of samurai. Techno music competes with sports shown on a flat-screen TV above a bartender busily churning out fruity martinis. This busy atmosphere threatens to overshadow the array of sushi rolls, sashimi, and tempura. A few flashy innovations include the yuzu loco, whose creamy chunks of shrimp and lobster are wrapped in cucumber and doused in a punchy riot of flavors—cilantro, jalapeno, wasabi, and yuzu. Soothingly sweet mango strips temper the fierce red fish eggs on a platter of monster crab leg. Udon noodles, thick, slick, and comforting, also make an appearance. Judging from the crowds, neighborhood residents may find it equally comforting to know that there's finally a sushi hot spot within walking distance. — Kate Appleton

There’s a $25 corkage fee.

Monster crab leg, $10; yuzu loco, $10; beef yaki udon, $13