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88 University Pl.,
New York, NY 10003
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Mon-Thu, noon-10:30pm; Fri, noon-11pm; Sat, 3pm-11:30pm; Sun, noon-10pm
4, 5, 6, L, N, Q, R, W at 14th St.-Union Sq.
$11.95-$26
American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Recommended
Houston St. to 21st St., Second Ave. to Eighth Ave.
The awning proclaims “family-style,” but don’t think The Olive Garden—at Osso Buco, the ample, reasonably priced portions are surprisingly tasty. You’ll find classics such as eggplant parmigiana, homemade spaghetti and meatballs, and fresh, tomato-heavy pasta fagioli. But it’s the namesake dish, literally meaning “bone hole,” that deserves your attention. The moist veal separates effortlessly from the shank and sits atop a hefty serving of fettucine; a tiny fork stuck in the center, perfect for scooping out the innards, adds a dramatic flair—as does the opera and Italian pop playing in the background. The mood, however, is laid-back and the crowd unpretentious. As for dessert: the tiramisu disappoints, but you probably wouldn’t have room for it anyway.
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