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507 Ninth Ave.,
New York, NY 10018
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Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm; Fri, 11am-midnight; Sat, noon-midnight; Sun, noon-11pm
A, C, E at 34th St.-Penn Station
$14-$36
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Recommended
30th St. to 45th St., Seventh Ave. to Tenth Ave.
Osteria Gelsi celebrates Puglian peasant food by spotlighting what’s on the plate. Donato Deserio’s very personal spin on classic Bari cuisine—he’s a native—makes these ancient dishes fresh. Long “priest strangler” pasta gets a beautiful complement in wild cherry vodka and wild boar; a pungent lemon sauce enlivens artfully presented roast monkfish. Appetizers, like squid crudo with peppers, are irresistible, but stingy; four miniscule ricotta-stuffed artichoke hearts don’t justify a $15 tag. The room, which Deserio designed, feels spare and summery, with pale yellow walls, soft lighting, and jaunty “awnings” protruding from one wall. The piazza realness is enhanced by snippets of Italian that occasionally drift from other tables. On a Hell’s Kitchen block whose most distinguishing feature is a bus stop, Osteria Gelsi is a find.
NoteOsteria Gelsi only accepts credit cards for deliveries.
Recommended DishesCrudo di seppia, $12; strozzapretti al sugo di cinghiale, $15; Puglia-baisse, $28
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