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507 Ninth Ave.,
New York, NY 10018
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Mon-Thu, 11:30am-11pm; Fri, 11:30am-midnight; Sat, 11:30am-midnight; Sun, 11:30am-11pm
A, C, E at 34th St.-Penn Station
$14-$36
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Recommended
33rd St. to 43rd St., Fifth Ave. to Tenth Ave.
Osteria Gelsi celebrates Puglian peasant food by spotlighting what’s on the plate. Tony Pecora’s very personal spin on classic Bari cuisine—he’s a native—makes these ancient dishes fresh. Long “priest strangler” pasta gets a beautiful complement in wild cherry vodka and wild boar; a pungent lemon sauce enlivens artfully presented roast monkfish. Appetizers, like squid crudo with peppers, are irresistible, but stingy; four miniscule ricotta-stuffed artichoke hearts don’t justify a $15 tag. The room, which Pecora designed, feels spare and summery, with pale yellow walls, soft lighting, and jaunty “awnings” protruding from one wall. The piazza realness is enhanced by snippets of Italian that occasionally drift from other tables. On a Hell’s Kitchen block whose most distinguishing feature is a bus stop, Osteria Gelsi is a find.
Recommended DishesCrudo di seppia, $13; strozzapretti al sugo di cinghiale, $15; Puglia-baisse, $28
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