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A white-tablecloth find near Grand Central, Osteria Laguna turns on the Northern Italian charm with soaring ceilings in Tuscan yellow, sculpted iron chandeliers, rustic wood chairs, and decorative jars of olive oil. Most dishes begin with tomato- and mozzarella-based recipes typical to American trattorias, and with less emphasis on traditional authentic Tuscan ingredients like lard, beans, liver, and wild game. A copious and savory antipasti bar features marinated vegetables, potato tarts, parmesan cheese, and anchovies. Grilled fish, lamb, veal, and beef are available for the carb-conscious, but cognoscenti favor the homestyle pasta dishes, made with rich, belly-filling semolina-flour pasta. Risotti come in daring combinations like scampi e rucola–lemon-scented risotto with langoustines and arugula–and serviceable pizzas focus on fresh cheeses and vegetables. — Timothy Cooper