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Just a few blocks away from the ridiculously popular and invariably packed Thai Café, northern Greenpoint's OTT is an overlooked gem. Small and simple, with homey brick walls, tasteful track lighting, and a painted, beaming Buddha, the lack of edginess doesn’t mean an absence of varied, subtly balanced dishes. Rousing openers like som tam marry crisp papaya and tomato in a salad underscored with tart lime. Pla-muck tod balances surprisingly delicate calamari served with a pungent chili "ketchup," and gob gra-tiam, robust frog's legs, could give Buffalo wings a serious run for their money. Above and beyond the ample Bangkok coconut-milk and curry standards and vegetarian plates, OTT's seafood is particularly impressive. Pla chu-chee, a succulent fried whitefish topped with mild, creamy curry and galanga, ginger's earthy, herby cousin, beautifully captures the bright harmony of contrasting flavors that defines fine Thai cooking. — Mark Holcomb

Pla chu-chee, $12; gob gra-tiam, $11.95; kuay-teow tom yum, $7.95; som tam, $5