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The food here far outshines the decor. Waiters serve dishes tableside, deftly divvying crisp scallion pancakes as small as corn tortillas and doling out big curls of shrimp in black bean sauce. Those shrimp are fresh and their sauce, exhilarating—salty, slightly sour, and pungent. Also on offer are other Cantonese and several Sichuan dishes; venturesome diners may wish to sample one of the restaurant's few original creations, such as the tender, skewered lamb chops coated with sweet, deep-red sauce with a hint of red wine. — JJ Goode

Scallion pancake, $5.50; jumbo prawns in black bean sauce, $20.95; lamb chops with sun-dried plum and red wine, $19.95