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This Upper West Side spot gives off a modern vibe with its cushy brown leather-backed seats and taupe walls, though the lights are a bit too bright—and the scene a bit too slow—for any real ambience. Ozen bills itself as an Asian-fusion restaurant, but its menu is really a combination of four separate Thai, Chinese, Japanese, and Vietnamese menus. The dizzying array of offerings includes classics from pad thai to kung pao chicken to sushi, with mixed results. Wasabi shumai are on the smaller side but make for strong starters; beef negimaki is unpleasantly chewy. For entrées, crispy General Tso's chicken and Pad Siew are solid, but Khao Soi, a coconut-milk-based yellow-curry soup with a kick, makes a standout meal. A short list of shochu and sake, and red and white wine—plus the ubiquitous Tsing Tao and Sapporo beers—round out the offerings. — Megan Creydt

Khao Soi, $9.95