Profile

A strip mall stucco exterior in Brooklyn’s Chinatown hides an airy hall with vaulted ceilings, sky-high windows, and frosted-glass chandeliers. Lunchtime on weekends, Chinese families pack the dozens of round tables as dim sum carts make the rounds. Favorites like crystal-wrapped pea-shoot-and-shrimp dumplings, pan-fried garlic-chive buns, and steamed rice rolls with spongy ground meat are stellar—in part because they’re all greaseless. Hundred-corner shrimp balls sport a crunchy golden vermicelli hat that shatters into grease-free shards, too. Crackling pork, with a sliver of fat and a thinner sliver of meat, is blistery and crunchy while the still-warm custard buns should generate a reason to visit Sunset Park if you really need one. Crowds thin out come dinnertime, but you might consider going against the pack mentality to sample some Hong Kong-style seafood like razor clams or a regional casserole like the decadent Hakianese stew pork. — Ganda Suthivarakom

A private dining room is available for up to 24 people. The weekday minimum is $400, weekends $600.

Parking
There’s a garage underneath the building.

Pork crackling, $15; baked custard buns, $2.85; Hakianese stew pork with preserved greens, $11.95