Mon-Fri, 5pm-1am; Sat-Sun, 11am-4pm and 5pm-1am
A, B, C, D, E, F, M at W. 4th St.-Washington Sq.; 1 at Christopher St.-Sheridan Sq.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
The last thing the West Village needs is yet another Italian restaurant, but Pagani's prices are considerably lower than its competitors: Most starters cost less than $10 and pastas are in the teens. The low cost is what ultimately redeems this restaurant, as the food isn't exceptional. It's best to stick with basics like the papparadelle Bolognese and apple-fennel salad, as anything too chef-y gets muddled in the kitchen (seared sea scallops arrive cold and are ruined by the addition of guanciale). But designer Taavo Somer (Freemans, Gemma, Peels) has designed a beautiful space that includes a big bar with plenty of seats, warm wood accents, and vintage photographs. It's best to come here with a big group (there's even a secluded private table in the back) or to enjoy a glass of wine with cured meats and cheeses before bar-hopping on Bleecker Street. The space used to house the historic O. Pagani & Brothers music store in the early twentieth century, and it stills feels like a cool, comfortable neighborhood hangout.