Profile

Rome wasn’t built in a day—and neither are the Roma-inspired pies at the Euro-chic Palà. The dough, which consists of nine organic flours, is allowed to rise naturally over three days, and the result is a marvelously light and crispy crust. Italian owner Gigio Palazzo says he set out to “change the game of pizza in New York.” And indeed he has. Delectable combos include the zucca, pumpkin purée layered with marbled pancetta, and the carciofella, heaped with artichokes and a tangle of spaghetti-thin strips of ham. Palazzo’s savvy gamble on unlikely toppings pays off. The fresh peas on the bisi pie lend a crisp and welcome sweetness to the rich parmigiana. Of the veggie options, the bufala cruda easily tops the list, heavy with misshapen hunks of mozzarella and roasted cherry tomatoes with splitting peels. As befits the urban grit of Allen Street, Palà’s interior skews industrial, though with pastoral touches. Roll-up aluminum garage doors with windows give way to polished concrete floors and ovens paneled in white subway tiles. Butcher block–style tables of unfinished wood are laden with fresh bunches of Sicilian oregano, which perfumes not only the pies here but also the fingertips. — AnneLise Sorensen

Carciofella, $18; zucca, $18; bufala cruda, $17