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The Plaza Hotel’s renovated dining lounge isn’t breaking any new ground, which seems to please loyal patrons and dazzled tourists just fine. It’s no secret that the unrepentantly opulent destination is more about experience than cuisine. From the silver butter dome to the Bernardaud china, formality is in full effect from breakfast through dinner (and of course during the time honored tradition of daily high tea service). Vongerichten-trained chef Didier Virot has spruced up the pricy continental fare, but despite Asian flourishes and spices, the menu remains reserved. Mace- and cumin-seasoned duck is a study in brown; the accompanying oatmeal and porcini cake does little to perk up the livery slices of poultry. Lighter fish preparations are where the kitchen excels. Nearly translucent shavings of yellowfin tuna are layered with equally delicate lengths of cucumber and drizzled with creamy horseradish tempered with just a bit of yogurt. A firm filet of cod stands up to its honey-almond brittle topping, the sweetness balanced by fresh julienned snow peas and a bright orange citrus sauce. — Krista Garcia

Daily, 2pm-5pm; three courses, $60

Yellowfin tuna marinated with coriander and cucumber, sheep’s milk yogurt horseradish sauce, $24; codfish roasted with almonds and honey, crispy basmati rice cake, snow peas, lemon sauce, $36