The L-shaped display case at Palumbo seems to go on forever, its golden glow illuminating a mind-boggling number of pastries like cookies dipped in thick chocolate, tarts piled high with glazed fruit, and flaky elephant ears encrusted with sugar. There are dozens of varieties of breads and sweets available at any given time, but cannoli is king at this confectionary—the tubes are crisp and filled to capacity with sweet ricotta cream. A baba au rhum almost eats like a pudding and happily doesn’t taste like a well drink—the booze is a subtle undertone. Classic tricolored cookies sit a little taller and prouder than most versions—a testament to a recipe that yields density without dryness. Sitting on the corner at the center of the Bronx’s Little Italy, Palumbo has attracted both visitors and locals since opening in late 2006. On the sidewalk patio, genial old men wielding dainty cups of cappuccino tell stories at top volume. Others bask in the sunshine, quietly poring over the Daily News—anachronisms, perhaps, in any other context, but perfectly at home in this delightfully retro neighborhood.