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This venue is closed.

With a faux waterfall in the entranceway and an all-glass façade, Pampa Grill is a somewhat glitzy addition to this modest section of Brooklyn, with its vinyl-sided homes. But the prices are not entirely unreasonable, and the reward is a carefully wrought menu, which includes condiments like chimichurri- and garlic-infused mustard made from scratch. The menu of grilled beef and pasta dishes appears Argentine, but in fact the chef, Gaston Piriz, is Uruguayan. And while he was formally trained at the French Culinary Institute and at centers in Southern Italy, it was at his father’s butcher shop by the Rió de la Plata where he learned to encase his own blood- and sweet-Italian sausages. The best way to experience his conscientious preparation and devotion to top-quality meat is with the mixed grill for two, complete with two kinds of sausage, spareribs, sweetbreads, and a skewer steak imported from Uruguay that melts in the mouth like fatty-tuna sashimi. For dessert, a tiramisu inventively infused with the refreshing flavor of orange zest is a pleasant surprise after packing away a towering platter of beef. — Rob Fischer

Empanadas, $6; parrillada gaucha (mixed grill for two), $38