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The Upper East Side isn’t quite crawling with good French bistros, so Paris Match is a boon to Francophiles in search of satisfying coq au vin. And when two are dining, and one wants moules and the other uni, you need look no further—Paris Match has sushi, too. This odd culinary coupling works out well even in a space whose allegiance is clearly to France: The dining room has the requisite red-leather banquettes, mirrors, globe lights, and arty-looking black-and-whites photos, while a small zinc bar draws a suave, attractive clutch of fortysomethings. But given a culinary gamut that runs from onion soup and escargots to white tuna and sea urchin, reliable bistro fare—nicely done skirt steak, grilled chicken paillard à la grecque—must compete for your attention with the Paris Match roll, a hearty, appealing confection of spicy tuna, eel, and cucumber wrapped with yellowtail and salmon. The outstanding sashimi tuna tartare appetizer, a tender, mouthwatering puck of glistening tuna, is de rigueur for regulars. — Nina Mehta

Sashimi tuna tartare, $16; skirt steak, $32