Sun-Wed, 11am-11pm; Thu-Sat, 11am-midnight
B, D, F, M at Broadway-Lafayette St.; 6 at Spring St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Canal St. to 10th St., Chrystie St. to Sixth Ave.
Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi are hardly the first New Yorkers to forge an empire out of red sauce and mozzarella. They might be the only ones, though, who’ve done so while vociferously fetishizing Progresso bread crumbs, B&G peppers, and Carvel ice cream, all formative influences in their greater-metropolitan-area youths. At Parm, the most affordable brand in their rapidly expanding empire, what can be interpreted as kitsch is actually tribute: the house-pulled “mozz,” in balls or sticks; the vinegary iceberg “Sunday” salad, which becomes a “Holiday” salad with some salami and cheese; and especially the eponymous sandwiches — eggplant, chicken, and meatball — which come on a roll, a hero, or a platter, along with a crusty, unironic square of baked ziti.