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Named for Turkey's highest military rank, Pasha serves authentic Turkish cuisine in a chic atmosphere that would please the most exacting sultan. Since 1997, it has amassed a loyal retinue of Upper West Siders, tourists, and pre-theater Lincoln Center patrons. The dining room is modern yet sensuous, with vibrant red walls and banquettes, beige fabric wall hangings, and festive, decorative plates. A skylight, recessed lighting, and candles set a romantic mood. Mezzes feature flash-fried calamari rings served with a garlic-rich walnut sauce, as well as a sprightly octopus salad with red onions, tomatoes, and green olives in a mild balsamic vinaigrette. Much of the cooking is straightforward—meats, seafood, and vegetables expertly grilled, braised, or stewed and infused with fresh dill, parsley, mint, and of course, ample garlic—but complex dishes, like baby lamb cubes stewed in a rosemary-scented tomato sauce and enveloped by a smoky eggplant purée or velvety branzino steamed with tomatoes, lemon, and fragrant bay leaves, merit due consideration, as do house specialties, like mint-tinged lamb dumplings and grape leaves stuffed with rice, pine nuts, and currants. Intrepid oenophiles should note the Turkish varietals on the wine list. — Michael Anstendig

Mon.—Sun., 5 p.m.—7 p.m., $26.95. It's especially popular with those attending performances at nearby Lincoln Center.

Kalamar tava, $8.95; ahtapot salatasi, $11; hunkar begendi, $21; levrek buglama, $19.95