Mon-Fri, noon-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10pm; Sat-Sun, closed
4, 5, 6, 7, S at Grand Central-42nd St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
This clubby midtown restaurant is out to recapture some of the raffish sparkle missing from its high-flying bull-market heyday. Andódespite hefty appetizer prices and some mingy portionsóit just might, thanks to exquisitely cooked, smartly piquant halibut and an impeccably singed strip of rare sirloin that scarcely needs béarnaise.