Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-midnight; Sun, 11:30am-10pm
6 at 116th St.
This beloved, ancient, way-uptown anchor of the pizza chainlet might be mildly trendified, with a few modish items like crème brûlée, but the waiters are still impatient and scold you if you change your mind. And the pizza tastes like childhood: For the purists, a big, crispy-edged margherita, cheese and tomato perfectly balanced. Cash, of course. Some customs are not easy to gentrify.