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Owner Paul Koval began fantasizing about opening a burger joint in 1979. Lucky for burger fans, that dream became a reality in 1989 with Paul's Palace, which devotees say serves some of the best burgers in town. His secret? "A Polish butcher," says Koval with pride. It doesn't hurt, either, that most of the line cooks have been there for over a decade. Their experience shows in the shop's fast turn around and uncanny ability to get a customer's order right, whether medium-well or medium-rare. Each juicy, eight-ounce patty is cooked with care. Toppings offer culinary variation for the gastrointestinally intrepid: Try the whopping Soul Burger, overloaded with bacon, cheese, ham, and fried onions. The extensive menu offers toppings that run from fiery jalapeño peppers to unctuous fried egg. Those who savor kitsch on the side will appreciate Paul's extensive collection of bric-a-brac odditites: a model train that chugs along the perimeter of the room, a toy bear cycling on a tight-rope overhead, and dolls of golden-era film stars with over-sized heads. Others may find the décor a bit overwhelming, even headache inducing, which may explain the occasionally gloomy disposition of the waitstaff. — T Sahara Meer

Paul's serves fried egg specials all-day long, like the tasty chili cheese omelette, enriched with the residual beefy flavor it picks up from the grill.

St. Mark's Burger with cheese, $8.40