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Sister to soul-food spot Peaches, this Bed-Stuy poultry purveyor has a smaller space and shorter menu, but shares the focus on sustainable, locally sourced ingredients. The interior, like the food, centers on nostalgia for simpler things: A cloud-gray room hosts wraparound picnic-style benches, and a scuffed hardwood floor complements a down-home service style. The kitchen doles out a collection of the usual high-end rib-stickers: sweet slabs of cornbread that taste more like cake; fried green tomatoes dressed with sprigs of arugula, barbecue mayo, and thick strips of bacon; large, juicy shrimp covered in mild barbecue sauce over fried-grits cubes; a bowl of creamed corn garnished with that same wonderful bacon. House cocktails that lean on bourbon, mashed blueberries, and sweet tea make for excellent chasers. Peaches' fare isn't always exceptional: Shrimp and grits with plainclothes Cheddar lacks any discernible kick, and greens, like a bland side bowl of sautéed kale, play second string. The kitchen’s famous fried-chicken plate, on the other hand, consists of two full breast pieces and a wing stacked over a slab of white bread and dusted with a spice so red it almost glows. While the “hot” variety is surprisingly mild, the “extra hot” option warrants a special note: Try it if you dare, but don’t say we didn’t warn you. — Patrick Coffee

Hot fried chicken, $12