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Peasant is exactly right. From its stunningly backlit brick-walled kitchen that features only open-fire cooking to its incredibly appealing pan-Italian menu, chef-owner Frank De Carlo has reason to bust his buttons every night, and you have almost too many reasons to undo a couple of yours. I like the little bowl of sweet ricotta cheese served gratis to the rowdy food scholars in the house, and I'm also partial to the brick-oven-baked rabbit, stewed in cannellini beans with salty strips of pancetta, and the perfectly oval pizza bianca pooled with olive oil. — Adam Platt

Thanks to some added soundproofing, you no longer need to shout to get your share of impeccably al dente pastas, and meltingly tender osso buco in a risotto-like nest of farro.

Rabbit with fava beans, $24; bistecca alla Fiorentina, $39

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Recipes at Peasant

• Seafood Risotto (2003)
• Baked Asparagus and Egg (2003)