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87 Very Good

Chef Frank DeCarlo’s indispensable Italian restaurant features a rustic setting, Tuscan food cooked over an open fire, and a hidden downstairs wine bar.

194 Elizabeth St., New York, NY, 10012


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The lowdown

Peasant is exactly right. From its backlit brick-walled kitchen that features only open-fire cooking to its incredibly appealing pan-Italian menu, chef-owner Frank DeCarlo has reason to bust his buttons every night, and you have almost too many reasons to undo a couple of yours. I like the little bowl of sweet ricotta cheese served gratis to the rowdy food scholars in the house, and I’m also partial to the gnocchi with morels and ramps in brown butter, and the perfectly oval pizza margherita with dollops of mozzarella.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

Insider Tips The downstairs wine bar — where the full menu can be ordered — opens nightly at 7 p.m., and is reserved for walk-ins only.

Recommended DishesGnocchi ai funghi; bistecca alla Fiorentina; lasagna di coniglio.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized