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Despite Dumbo’s continual ascent, local holdout Pedro’s remains as rustic and improvised a space as can be imagined. The subterranean dining room’s low ceiling, red-and-white tile floor, and wood-paneled walls suggest a David Lynch set, especially when an oldies mix plays on the stereo. To the right, a long bar focuses on Mexican beers and margaritas. To the left, a steam tray counter offers a short Dominican and Mexican menu. Cuban sandwiches are the big sellers, as are super nacho platters laden with salsa and plenty of sour cream. The main draw is the charming outdoor seating area, with its salvaged chairs and booths. (Regulars still lament the painting over of the Día de Los Muertos mural.) Although the building itself looks like it won’t withstand the next heavy rain, somehow Pedro’s perseveres. — Ethan Wolff

Tamales, $3.50; pork with rice and beans, $10; super nachos, $10