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Tucked in among 100-year-old Little Italy culinary landmarks, Pellegrino's, open since the mid-90s, is a relative newcomer to Mulberry Street's tourist strip. The restaurant's romantic vibe, with low lighting and intimate, well-spaced tables, seems perfect for macho out-of-towners or just-graduated fellows eager to impress a dinner-and-dancing date—especially someone planning a trip to Italy, if the brassy travel posters that decorate the walls are any indication. In almost any other part of the city, Pellegrino's would be a low-key, home-style, neighborhood favorite—not always packed, perhaps, but beloved by regulars. That's why, given the less-than-inspired surroundings, it's a pleasant surprise to discover a few skillfully done dishes, like the Linguini alla Sinatra, of market-fresh seafood in a tangy red clam sauce enhanced with mushrooms and pine nuts. From among the dozens of freshly prepared desserts, tiramisu, especially, entices. — David S. Hirschman

Calamari in white wine sauce, $22.95; black pepper filet mignon, $36.95