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Restaurateur Enrico Proietti has the very specific knack of creating a festive downtown atmosphere in a straitlaced uptown neighborhood. At Baraonda, one of his freewheeling Upper East Side restaurants, dancing on the table is not only allowed—it's encouraged. Expect the same high spirits at Per Lei, where Fabrizio Musa's colorful female portraits are in keeping with the restaurant's name ("for her" in Italian). Proietti recruited two chefs from Milan to cook classic and modern regional fare, from carpaccio and carciofi alla Romana to branzino with cauliflowers in a cherry tomato and lemon sauce. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld