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This is the restaurant that first made diners aware that there was more to Greek food than a hunk of lamb on a vertical spit. Periyali took the plates away from Zorba and set them down in a room that exudes the quiet whitewashed, salt-air scented charm of mornings in Mykonos. And while other places have reduced the novelty of combining bouzouki music and class, Periyali’s succulent baby chicken, unfussily grilled fish, and uncommonly light moussaka can still surprise and beguile with their cultivated polish. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Moussaka, $21; grilled lamb chops, $31