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As if Grand Central Terminal weren't a triumphant enough urban phoenix, cross under the Park Avenue viaduct for yet another left-for-cobwebs space that's become a story with a happy ending. Buzzy O'Keeffe has resurrected Pershing Square as a commuter godsend. While its steel-beamed décor makes no apologies for where it is (you can hear the ka-thump of the traffic passing overhead through the herringboned brick-and-cork ceiling), its pivotal location and rolled-up-shirtsleeves-worthy brasserie grub have made it a welcome oasis when you're faced with another Metro-North delay or an early dinner with an out-of-town client. Its fare is even priced reasonably enough for you to be a sport and expense the next department lunch. — Hal Rubenstein

Sun.—Sat., 11:30 a.m.—3 p.m.

Boneless beef short ribs, $23; chicken pot pie, $16

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