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Two forces have made Pete's Downtown into a landmark restaurant: the steadfast ownership of the Thristino family, who have run the restaurant since it opened in 1894, and the spectacular waterside view. From the spot's prime vantage point on the Fulton Ferry Landing, guests linger over an eyeful of the Brooklyn Bridge and Manhattan skyline that's rivaled only by the neighboring River Café. Meanwhile, the Italian menu fades into the backdrop. Traditional appetizers such as homemade mozzarella with roasted red peppers show more careful crafting than some of the entrees, which are dominated by veal and chicken dishes in tomato and white wine sauces. Pastas are cooked al dente, but their sauces are uniformly salty. The chef shows some creativity, however, with specials such as artichokes stuffed with a bold trio of Romano, garlic and capers. While the cuisine overall isn't distinctive, the food isn't the main draw. — Eric Wolff

The huge plate-glass windows make a good seat easy to come by.

Homemade mozzarella with roasted red peppers, $9