Neil Ganic has been opening and closing versions of this restaurant around Brooklyn for over a decade now, and the latest incarnation, straddling the BQE in western Carroll Gardens, provides delicious proof that the bargain-seafood concept works. Ganic employs a fish-market conceit, with the daily catch on full display and the menu posted in a window pane overhead, and combines the simplest of preparations (red snapper, for instance) with the most comforting of presentations (most plates come with buttered vegetables and buttery mashed potatoes). The BYO policy keeps prices low, and despite an expansion into the adjacent flower shop, the space feels as cozy and unpretentious as its predecessors.
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