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Everything feels hushed at Petrossian, the art deco shrine to the caviar-and-Champagne good life. Maybe it’s the restaurant’s sumptuous decor—gleaming marble, rich wood, Lalique glass sconces, 1930s-era sculptures—that inspires quiet reverence. Or maybe it’s the menu, with its confidently high-class and high-quality ingredients. The various caviars and a platter of rich tsar-cut (center-cut) smoked salmon are usually presented with minimal accoutrements (no capers or crème fraîche). Alternatively, entrees are tarted up with swank ingredients like lobster, foie gras, or truffles but that’s to be expected: Luxury is the theme here. The wild mushrooms accompanying a seared sturgeon are unbelievably rich, and Muscovy duck breast is juicy and succulent. The prices of the three dozen Champagnes on the wine list may leave you spinning before you take a sip. But while the clientele leans toward savvy tourists, uptown swells, and gray-haired gentlemen plying their “nieces” with dessert, Petrossian also appeals to ordinary folks with a prix-fixe menu that may be among the best values in town. — Melena Ryzik

Mon.—Fri., 11:30—3 p.m.; three courses, $25; 5:30 p.m.—11 p.m.; three courses, $37

Brunch
Sat.—Sun., 11:30 a.m —3 p.m.; $28

History Lesson
Back in the day, the Russians taught the French a thing or two about cuisine: Brothers Melkoum and Mouchegh Petrossian introduced caviar to Paris in 1920, and Petrossian is today the world's major caviar importer.

Seared Sterling white sturgeon, $36; seared Long Island duck with seared foie gras, $31

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• Super Nova (2/23/04)
• I Need a Crash Course in Fine Dining (1/5/04)

Recipes at Petrossian

• Tomato-and-Pepper-Vodka Punch (2001)