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32-07 34th Ave.,
Astoria, NY 11106
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Tue-Fri, 4pm-11pm; Sat-Sun, 1pm-11pm; Mon, closed
N, W at Broadway
$13-$22
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Recommended
When Philoxenia opened in Astoria in 2004, it managed to distinguish itself from the Hellenic pack with its simple, rustic cooking and notably homey vibe (the name, after all, means “hospitality”). But when the two-year lease wasn’t renewed, chef-owner Dionysia Germani and her daughter, Nancy Gavopoulou, closed up shop. They decided to resuscitate Philoxenia in much larger quarters, joined by two faithful regulars turned partners. Germani’s menu still showcases signature dishes like the feta special, broiled in tinfoil with tomatoes and peppers, and her squat, tomato-sauced meatballs, plus the usual roster of spreads, salads, and charcoal-grilled whole fish priced by the pound.
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