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226 Varick St.,
New York, NY 10014
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Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun, closed
1 at Houston St.; A, B, C, D, E, F, V at W. 4th St.-Washington Sq.
$2.25-$10
Cash Only
Not Accepted
Spring St. to Christopher St., Sixth Ave. to West St.
The regulars at this pizzeria have such a rapport with the friendly staff manning the counter that you’re as likely to hear “the usual” ordered during the afternoon rush as you are a standard slice and a Coke. And while the limited, elbow-to-elbow seating—there’s only one small table next to a mirror and a bunch of stools nestled up to the counter—and grungy, rust-colored, tiled walls might leave something to be desired, the pizza does not. The light, crispy crust on the rectangular Sicilian slices stands up well to hearty toppings such as sausage, onion, peppers, or ham and pineapple, while the generous plain wedge of pizza with a thin, slightly blackened crust nicely balances cheese, sauce and just the right amount of grease. Chase it all down with a cup of Italian ice from the chest out front. Just be prepared to eat standing up.
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