Profile

The cedar-paneled interior of Pho Grand suggests a hunting lodge, well in keeping with the homey food therein. Based in a hearty beef stock with cilantro and a hint of onion, the namesake soup pairs airy rice noodles with beef of six varieties—from brisket to tendon to navel. Beyond the bowl, an extensive menu covers the Vietnamese standards. Barbecued shrimp are served with squares of thin noodles and thick slices of pickled carrot and radish. Sesame-marinated beef is rolled into thin strips atop a giant bowl of vermicelli. The gravy-like chicken curry has notes of ginger and sops up well via an accompanying baguette. Amid the burnished wood, a bank of octagonal mirrors reflects faux-window light boxes and provides the illusion of a wider space. Although a generic exterior makes it easy to overlook, Pho Grand's flavorful cooking here outsizes its Bayard Street competitors. — Ethan Wolff

Xe lua pho soup, $5.95; curry chicken, $5.45; beef on rice vermicelli, $5.95