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The utilitarian subtropical-cafeteria decor doesn't seem promising, but delve into this Chinatown favorite's multi-page menu and you'll find that Pho Viet Huong's kitchen is more accomplished than its decorator. For something hearty, try one of the namesake noodle soups or the set-price, all-beef tasting menu—the BBQ beef rolls, also available as an appetizer, are an exquisitely smoky standout. If you're feeling adventuresome, the menu offers both frog and hot-vinegar fondue options. Service is disinterested but lightning fast—which is a good thing, since you'll need another sweet Saigon beer to put out the chili fire. — Chelsea Mauldin

Bo nuong cuon (BBQ beef rolls), $5.50; gom tom thit (shrimp salad with peanut and lime), $12.50; seven courses of beef, $32.95