Profile

Gino Cammarata claims to have brought pasta con le sarde to New York, back when he was working at Siracusa in the East Village, and who are we to argue? Recently, the Sicilian chef had been spending his time crafting superb gelati and selling them wholesale to restaurants out of a Bensonhurst tanning salon. We’re happy to see him back in his element, especially this handsome corner spot with its carved wood bar and gelato stand tucked discreetly into the back. As a prelude to dessert, you might want to sample some of Cammarata’s small plates (piattini), like the fried zucchini marinated in vinegar, or a bitter chicory salad with anchovy dressing. You can’t go wrong with any primi, but we’re partial to that legendary bucatini con le sarde, the strands perfectly al dente and the sardine sauce distinguished by not only pignoli and raisins but tiny cauliflower florets. “I was getting $25 for this in 1985,” says Cammarata, who’s dropped his price to a modest $14. The gelato, at $6, is worth the splurge. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Related Stories

Featured In

• Eat Cheap 2009: The Cheap List (7/20/09)