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If a Tuscan farmhouse landed on Fire Island, it might look something like Piccolo, a kitsch-packed eatery owned by the group behind Cuba Cafe and Alonso’s. As if to assert how molto Italiano it is, Piccolo covers washed-yellow walls with giant wine bottles, fake garlic cloves, and endless rows of retro ads referencing the Boot. The kitchen, alas, reveals Piccolo’s Mall of America roots: Dinner rolls come without olive oil, pastas are well beyond al dente, and entrées are often overcooked. Be careful when requesting a sidewalk table in warmer months. The Third Avenue buses have been known to belch emissions directly on the customers. — Michael Kaminer

Piccolo’s parent, Chelsea Dining Group, has opened Le Petit Canard in the next-door space formerly occupied by beloved French takeout joint Musette.

Bresaola, $8.95; branzini alla fragole, $17.95