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This cheery, tranquil picket fence could hardly find a more fitting location than Ditmas Park, Brooklyn's uncharacteristically bucolic 'burb. But despite the June Cleaver-esque milieu inside—real picket fences trim the walls; a basket of toys strategically placed within a child's reach—this self-proclaimed home of "comfortable food" offers some disarmingly daring dishes. Starters (beyond the bucket of popcorn served in lieu of bread) can surprise via some oven-fresh potato chips. Among the ample entrees, try the buttermilk-fried chicken, with its thin and peppery skin. Beaver never had it so good.

Since you're bound to overindulge at picket fence, plan a post-meal stroll down one of Ditmas Park's residential streets. The rows of stately Victorian houses and soaring trees will make you think you've crossed outside the borough's boundaries.

Warm potato chips, $4