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Chef John Villa (JUdson Grill) takes a new old-world approach at Pico, his stylish Portuguese-inspired restaurant in an old Bazzini nut plant in TriBeCa. Proximity to the Hudson befits mostly seafood starters like steamed cockles with fava beans and vinho verde while second courses like spit-roasted suckling pig with a citrus-and-honey glaze marry the rustic with the refined. The blue-and-gold color scheme is not the work of a University of Michigan grad but a tribute to Portugal's ubiquitous palette.

Steamed cockles, $14; roasted suckling pig, $28; duck braised in terra cotta, $24