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It's unclear why anyone would make Pietro's a destination. Certainly, it's not the food—gigantic portions of heavily grilled chophouse fare, basic seafood, and traditional Italian-American meat and pastas, some homemade, but most inexpertly prepared and all drastically overpriced. And it shouldn't be for lack of better choices. For steak and à la carte sides at this cost, you'd be better served by Peter Luger, just across the East River, and for classic Italian-American, by Carmine's, just across town. People aren't coming for the ambience, either. Green linoleum tiles cover most of the floor, undisguised acoustic tile covers the ceiling; and an odd assortment of wine bottles, leafy green plants, vintage posters, and cartoons cover the somewhat dingy walls. Clearly diners come out of loyalty. A New York institution since it opened in 1932, the restaurant moved to its current location in 1984. Pietro's primarily serves those who've been eating here for generations and who will probably continue to do so for generations to come. — Andrew Sessa

Shrimp cocktail, $19; homemade cannelloni, $25; filet mignon, $42