C, E at 50th St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
This busy theater-district eatery is like a stage-set replica of a French brasserie. Everything looks right from a distance—the painted French doors, the faux luggage rack, and a hodgepodge menu of cross-regional French dishes—but under close scrutiny, the façade doesn’t always hold up. A savory onion tart marrying sweet, caramelized onions with nutty Gruyère suffers from a tough pastry crust whereas a sprightly, vinaigrette-laced frisée salad, with plenty of crispy lardons and a tiny poached egg, comes near to exhibiting authentic culinary joie de vivre. Hordes of pre-curtain diners and out-of-towners too shy to venture too far afield may sup here, but for those seeking authentic, consistent French fare, the real thing lies outside this brasserie’s doors.Brunch
Sat.–Sun., 10 a.m.–5 p.m.Recommended Dishes
Frisée with poached egg and lardon, $10