This SoHo restaurant features soup dumplings made by Charlie Chen, a former executive chef at famous Taiwanese dumpling chain Din Tai Fung. There are three versions here, not only the classic pork but also chicken and a seafood variation fortified with pork fat. But it’s not all dumplings. There are dan dan noodles, cumin ribs in the style of Sichuan’s famed cumin lamb, Cantonese-style cod, and wind-sand chicken, an obsessed-over Hong Kong preparation of roasted bird garnished with a mess of fried garlic. Pair that with an impressive wine list assembled by a Per Se and Chez Panisse vet and you’re in business.